Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Prepare Yourself for Fall and Winter Driving | Frontier Dodge



Car Care Tips from the Pros Prepare You for Fall and Winter Driving

It’s foolhardy to head out in a poorly maintained vehicle in the dead of winter, of course, but even vehicle owners in temperate zones need a car care check as the days grow shorter, note the pros with the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE), an independent group that tests and certifies the competence of auto technicians.

“Regular, routine maintenance can help improve your gasoline mileage, reduce pollution, and catch minor problems before they become big headaches,” says Tony Molla, vice president of communications at ASE. ASE offers these car care tips to give you peace of mind during fall and winter driving:
  • Before you do anything else, read your owner’s manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommended service schedules.
  • Get engine performance and driveability problems — hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc. — corrected at a reputable repair shop that employs ASE-certified repair professionals. Cold weather makes existing problems worse.
  • Replace dirty filters, such as air, fuel, and PCV. A poorly running engine is less efficient and burns more gasoline.
  • As the temperature drops below freezing, add a bottle of fuel deicer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Keeping the gas tank filled also helps prevent moisture from forming.
  • Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual — more often if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips. A poll of ASE Master Auto Technicians revealed that regular oil and filter changes is one of the most frequently neglected services, yet one that is essential to protect your engine.
  • The cooling system should be flushed and refilled as recommended. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water is usually recommended. Do-It-Yourselfers: Never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses also should be checked regularly by a professional technician.
  • The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility.
  • Replace old blades regularly. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Stock up on windshield washer solvent — you’ll be surprised how much you use during the winter months. And don’t forget to always carry an ice scraper.
  • Have your battery checked. The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. However, most motorists can perform routine care: Wear eye protection and protective rubber gloves. Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; retighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly. A word of caution: Removal of cables can cause damage or loss of data/codes on some newer vehicles, so always check your owner’s manual first. Be sure to avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid.
  • Inspect all lights and bulbs. Replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag. Clouded lenses can be refinished by many service outlets or by using a DIY kit found in major auto parts outlets.
  • Exhaust fumes inside your vehicle’s cabin can be deadly. Have the exhaust system examined for leaks and problems while the vehicle is on a lift. The trunk and floorboards should also be inspected for small holes.
  • Worn tires are dangerous in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tire pressure once a month, letting the tires “cool down” before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don’t forget to check your spare, and be sure the jack is in good working condition. Under-inflated tires or poorly aligned wheels makes your engine work harder and thus use excess gasoline.
  • Have your brakes checked periodically for safety and to prevent costly repairs that can be caused by neglect.
  • The transmission is often neglected until a major failure. Routine checks and fluid changes at prescribed intervals can prevent very costly repairs down the line.
  • Always carry an emergency kit with you: extra gloves, boots and blankets; flares; a small shovel and sand or kitty litter; tire chains; a flashlight and extra batteries; and a cell phone and extra car charger. Put a few “high-energy” snacks in your glove box.
Source: http://www.ase.com/News-Events/Publications/Glove-Box-Tips/Getting-Your-Vehicle-Ready-For-Winter.aspx

Monday, November 3, 2014

The 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee - "Must-Shop SUV for Towing"



The 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee is reported to be coming with few required updates such as 470 pound-feet of torque and bump in output of 475 horsepower.

In the 2014 model the auto giant offered 465 lb-ft and 470 hp.

Apart from the horsepower and torque updates the new 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee to also come with a special edition and it is named as Red Vapor.

The Red Vapor debuted at the 2014 Paris Auto Show last month.

Designed in sand color, the 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee is equipped with EcoDiesel Trail Warrior in terms of performance parts and its accessories come from the house of Mopar. The vehicle comes in satin black coloring twenty-inch wheels, roof basket and All-Terrain BFGoodrich tires.

Interior wise the jeep is impressive too. It comes with all-weather floor mats, door sills, pedal kit, cargo tray and a lighted Jeep logo. The entire decor is in black and tan.

The exterior too is distinct. Potential customers to get choice of three different shades and those are Bright White Clear Coat, Brilliant Black Crystal Pearl Coat as well as Redline Red Pearl Clear Coat. The wheels are in Goliath-style with gloss black detailing. The jeep has got custom engine cover, backlit SRT logos and the cabin accents in red.

The new model is also reported to have received Active Noise Canceling system to help in reducing outside noise and offer more refined and more relaxing ride. The vehicle is fitted with four microphones apart from good audio system.

If believed to the claims made by Jeep, the vehicle is to offer acceration of up to sixty miles per hour from zero in just 4.8 seconds. Its top speed is said to be of 160 mph. In the mid-13s the starting speed accelerates to quarter mile time in the same 4.8 seconds.

The Cherokee comes with a 6.4-liter HEMI V-8, eight-speed automatic, Pirelli tires. Customers can choose between the available Pirelli P Zero three-season or Scorpion Verde all-season. It is equipped with Selec-Track adjustable suspension with Bilstein dampers and Brembo brakes having four-piston in the rear tires and six-piston in the front ones. Its towing capacity is 7,200-lb.

The jeep has so far received good and impressive critics. It is said to be one of the “must-shop SUVs for towing.” The Cherokee in general has also been said as one of the most-awarded sport utility vehicles ever. Few other awards include Mid-size SUV of Texas for Grand Cherokee Overland 4×4, Compact SUV of Texas for regular Cherokee and Mid-size Luxury SUV of Texas for Grand Cherokee Summit 4×4 EcoDiesel.

Source: http://masterherald.com/2015-jeep-grand-cherokee-standing-tall-to-receive-more-awards/2423/

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Five Tips for Off-roading on Sand in your Jeep ® Brand Vehicle | Frontier Dodge

JGC12BR4 009 494x328 Five Tips for Off roading on Sand in your Jeep<sub> ® </sub> Brand Vehicle summer sand offroad Off roading off road Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep grand cherokee  adventures  photo
To many Jeep® brand fans, the summer season means one thing: finally taking a long-awaited off-roading trip to a sandy spot.
Whether you’re taking your Jeep brand vehicle to the beach for the day or attempting to climb to the top of a sand dune along the shoreline, it’s important to understand how your vehicle performs in sand. For all the beginners out there, we’ve come up with a few tips to help you prepare for your next sand-filled excursion. As always, remember to drive consistent with your experience level and the conditions.
1. Make sure your vehicle is properly equipped.
Before your vehicle’s tires even touch the sand, it’s important to make sure you have all the proper equipment. When driving on sand dunes, this may include a tall antenna with an attached flag to help make your vehicle more visible to others in the area. Make sure to check with the park’s guidelines before heading out for a full list of requirements.
2. Drop your tire pressure.
Dropping your tire pressure 10-12 pounds below normal can help maintain traction in sandy conditions. Just don’t forget to air up before you hit the pavement again.
3. Understand the consistency of the sand.
The consistency of the sand can affect how you drive your vehicle. You may need to alternate between high (for softer sand) and low (for harder, wetter sand) four-wheel-drive settings, depending on the consistency of the sand.
4. Keep up your vehicle’s momentum.
Maintaining momentum while driving on sand can help prevent your Jeep brand vehicle from losing traction. Try to keep a forward movement going, especially when climbing up large dunes.
5. Avoid tight turns.
Along with maintaining forward momentum, it’s important that you make large, wide turns in your vehicle while on sand. This will help prevent your vehicle from slowing down and getting stuck.

Where is your favorite sandy place to off-road? Share your best stories with us in the comments section below!

Friday, August 22, 2014

Mopar Custom Hood Decal for Your Jeep ® Brand Vehicle "| Frontier Dodge

Jeep Hood 494x370 Mopar Custom Hood Decal for Your Jeep<sub> ® </sub> Brand Vehicle  company  photo
Never forget your map at home again.
With the help of Mopar’s Jeep Performance Parts, the hood of your Jeep® brand vehicle can now be customized with a topographical map of the area of your choosing.
To start creating your vehicle’s decal, visit the customizer on the Mopar website. From there, you can select the map, style and border color that best fits your Jeep brand vehicle. If you don’t have a particular map location in mind for your decal, you can always use an infamous off-roading location option such as Hell’s Revenge or the Rubicon Trail.
hooddecal 494x361 Mopar Custom Hood Decal for Your Jeep<sub> ® </sub> Brand Vehicle  company  photo

Once you’ve selected your map and border, you can add a bull’s-eye or compass icon to pinpoint an exact location on your map.
After your design is complete, all you’ll need to do is submit your e-mail address to secure your design. Mopar will e-mail you a unique code that matches with your exact design. You can then take that code to your local dealer where they’ll be able to place an order for the decal as well as help you schedule an installation appointment.
The decals will be available for Jeep Wranglers dating back to the 2007 model, the Jeep Grand Cherokee dating back to the 2011 model and the all-new 2014 Jeep Cherokee.
Will your map include your hometown? Your favorite trail? Somewhere else? Start designing your personalized decal here.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

No Reservations - What It's Like to Sell a Car at Barrett-Jackson

RE-POSTING:

 

No Reservations | What It’s Like to Sell a Car at Barrett-Jackson

By Steve Magnante

Faithful Redline readers will recognize my name as a regular contributor to this esteemed site devoted to all things wonderful and Dodge. But to newcomers, my name is Steve Magnante and I’m also a regular on-stage vehicle commentator at the world-famous Barrett-Jackson collector car auctions on Fox Sports 1 (formerly Speed).

Barrett-Jackson produces four auctions annually, but the Scottsdale, Arizona, show is by far the greatest, and the recent January event was no disappointment, with $113 million generated by the sale of nearly 1,400 collector vehicles of virtually every description. The top-selling Chrysler family product was the 1954 Plymouth Belmont experimental show car, which hammered for a stunning $1,320,000 (including buyer’s commission), making it the eighth costliest purchase of the event. The next highest Chrysler family collectible was another Plymouth, a 1970 HEMI® Superbird for $550,000 (including buyer’s commission). Got a Dodge in your garage? Keep it nice—you never know.

Although top-tier classics and factory show cars generate the seven-figure sales, the meat and potatoes of every Barrett-Jackson event are the muscle cars. Hundreds of vintage Chargers, Challengers, Darts, Coronet R/Ts, Road Runners, GTXs and ’Cudas cross the block every year and make up a giant portion of every sale’s final tally. At Scottsdale, we connected with Canadian Dodge enthusiast Jack O’Toole, who brought two 1970 Challengers to sell.

Jack O’Toole’s pristine ’70 Challenger T/A brought $60,000—some 15 times its original sticker price.

“Time slows to a crawl, yet it’s all over really quickly and big decisions have to be made very fast. You have to have faith in the system.” Those are the words Jack used to describe the experience of selling his ’70 Challenger T/A (Lot #170). With more than 1,400 cars to sell over the six-day extravaganza, Barrett-Jackson management calculated that each car could remain at center stage for between 2.5 and 4 minutes.

To the uninformed, it might seem impossible that transactions involving tens, and even hundreds, of thousands of dollars could be made in such a short time span—a mere 200 seconds on average. But there’s more to it than that. Barrett-Jackson auctions are set up so that every car is displayed for several days before it hits the block. During the inspection days, interested bidders are free to inspect cars under several massive tents where they can learn more and speak with consignors (a.k.a. sellers). In Jack’s case, the auto-body technician from Alberta spent many hours standing by his Challenger, and it paid off.

“It’s a funny thing,” Jack said. “I have no idea if I’m talking to the guy who will end up buying the car or just a tire kicker looking to pass the time.” But Jack stayed put, chatting with every passerby.

Good thing, too. As I walked into the tent where Jack’s car was parked between a late-1950s MG and a disco-era Firebird, the striking contrast set off by the Challenger’s FY1 Banana Yellow paint and black roof, hood and side stripes immediately grabbed my eye. At Barrett-Jackson, every consigned vehicle must have a printed description in the windshield. Jack’s stated that the car was completely restored to factory-stock specifications, though it lacked its original engine block. Jack’s description continued and stated that a “date-correct replacement block” had been acquired and installed.

This 1966 Dart is one of about 50 so-called “D-Darts” built for NHRA stock-class drag racing. It was lot #526.1 and sold for an impressive $44,000 (including buyer’s commission). Its VIN begins with the super-stock sequence of LO23D. It’s the real deal and the first one your author has ever seen in person.

If you’re new to the world of collectible Dodges, know that cars with all of their original parts are the most highly coveted—and valued. But let’s remember that a muscle car like a 1970 Challenger T/A was made to be driven hard. It wasn’t unheard of for rambunctious drivers to push things too far—especially in those days, before electronic engine-speed limiters and fuel cut-off programming. With its free-breathing trio of Holley 2-barrel carburetors and short-stroke reciprocating assembly, accidental over-revs were a classic way to snap connecting rods. When that happens the broken parts thrash around inside the block until they fight their wayoutside the block, often forcing the need for a replacement.

But Jack’s T/A is different from base Challengers, or even Challenger R/T muscle car models. Because Dodge produced the limited-edition T/A to legalize certain components for race duty in the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) Trans Am race series, each of the 2,399 Challenger T/As made was equipped with a very special engine block. Though functionally identical to the 340 Magnum 4-barrel engine offered optionally in base 1970 Challengers and Challenger R/Ts, the T/A block (like its AAR ’Cuda counterpart over at Plymouth) was cast with extra-thick main-bearing bulkheads to accommodate four-bolt main-bearing caps.

To be clear, these extra-duty four-bolt caps were not factory installed. Rather, standard two-bolt caps were employed. But the potential was there, and professional SCCA racers like Sam Posey made use of it. To make visual identification quick and easy, these special SCCA blocks carried a specific casting number on the driver-side of the block: 3577130TA. Note the letters “TA” at the end of the sequence; they stand for Trans Am. By contrast, the blocks used for street-oriented 340 4-barrel engines display a different casting number (2780930-340) and lack the coveted TA marking.

Getting back to Jack’s printed vehicle description, when I saw the phrase “date-correct replacement block” I quizzed him if the block was simply a 340 Magnum (4-barrel type) block with a casting date that agreed with the car’s build date–as stamped into the fender tag—or if it was an actual T/A Six Pack block scavenged from another Challenger T/A (or AAR ’Cuda). He said: “I don’t know and never thought to check.” When I reminded him that collectors of these cars generally pay a premium of as much as $10,000 for cars with correct TA blocks, we became curious, very curious.

HEMI(R) Dodge Challenger

I left Jack and his pristine T/A to inspect more cars but planted a seed in the Albertan’s mind. Sure enough, a day later Jack found a skinny kid and paid him a few bucks to slink beneath the rocker where he confirmed the block was indeed a TA unit. Jack had him snap a digital picture of the proof and quickly went to the Barrett-Jackson consignor office to update the vehicle description with the good news. It was Saturday afternoon.

Jack’s screaming yellow T/A crossed the block Tuesday evening, January 14, 2014. Despite being the first day of the auction, the room was well-stocked with potential bidders from all over the world. Jack tells us: “You get a call that it’s time to bring the car from the display tent up into the pre-staging lanes. At this point there is about an hour left and your excitement level really begins to rise. Then car by car you move on to the actual staging lanes with about 10 other cars. This is where potential bidders make last-minute inspections and you really need to be there to answer any and all questions. Before you know it, you’re next in line and rolling up onto the ramp. Those last 100 feet from the ramp to the block are your final minutes of ownership. As you hand the keys to the Barrett-Jackson driver, it is emotional. The car isn’t yours anymore and there’s nothing you can do to reverse it.”

The bidding started at $20,000 and quickly crept to $50,000 in two- to five-thousand-dollar increments. The crowd was really responding to its factory-correct nose-down stance, imposing fiberglass hood, side-exit exhaust and striking yellow and black colors. As the auctioneer paused for a moment to remind the crowd of the car’s correct TA block, bidding picked up again and finally topped out at an even $60,000. SOLD! Jack tells us he was happy with the result (but not so much with the $82,000 his equally pristine restored ’70 HEMI Challenger brought—he was hoping for a figure closer to “the ton,” auction-speak for $100,000).

“I think the T/A’s $60K selling price was a little bit soft, and maybe due to the fact the car crossed the block after 9:00 p.m. But I still did okay and am completely happy with the result. There was profit in this deal for me.” Jack continues: “That’s what auction sales are all about. I think I got the best dollar on that day, at that hour that I would have gotten anywhere. It goes back to the pre-sale advertising done by Barrett-Jackson, the exposure in the internet catalog, the amount of people who were there on site. The only sad thing was that we lost some of the crowd as the night wore on. But I’m working on a ’70 Road Runner back in Alberta. It’s a two-owner 383 automatic car with 32,000 original miles.”

Will we see Jack’s Road Runner cross the Barrett-Jackson auction block in 2015? “Could be,” Jack says. “I really enjoy the thrill of getting together with the owner of a classic Mopar and cooking a deal so both sides are satisfied with the outcome, then bringing it home and spending some time with it to take off the rough edges … and then selling it to move on to another project. I am an enthusiast, not a collector or dealer. The thrill is in tracking stuff down. It’s fun and exciting.”

To learn more about Barrett-Jackson go to www.barrett-jackson.com.

Steve Magnante